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| Our view 10 steps from our hut for a week...about as crowded as it ever got. |
Have you ever dreamed of that perfect vacation where you were on a tiny
island with just your crew, sleeping in a hut steps away from a deserted
private beach; gentle surf lapping up on the beach as a lullaby; a few over-sized iguana's for roommates to keep the local
mosquito population in check; waking to share a sunrise walk on the
beach with
Macaque monkeys; no other structures other then a restaurant/bar/community area
putting out great food, cold beers and friendly conversation? Yeah, us
too. We've searched the internet almost to the end
trying to book that vacation. To be honest, we've even booked that vacation a few times, only
for it to not be true. Well, ladies and gentlemen, let me
introduce you to a dream come true -
Lazy Beach, Cambodia.
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| This is not a joke... |
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| Commute to our hut. |
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| Commuter traffic. |
Our first big trip! Fall Break hit mid October for Erin and we hightailed it over to Cambodia. We traveled via land (charter bus then private van then fishing boat) versus air (much much cheaper this way). I would like to brag about how smart we were and how much research we did to put the trip together but that was not the case. A co-worker of Erin's had been to this beach resort before and planned then entire thing from A to Z. Our Mom's didn't raise no dummies - when she made the offer to jump on board with 2 other families with kids - we were in! Didn't hurt that the amount of international traveling their families have done can fill several passports, so we basically just had to show up at the bus on time, the rest was figured out for us!
Our final destination was
Lazy Beach on the island of
Koh Rong Saloem about a 2 hour boat ride from
Sihanoukville.
A 2 hr bus run to the border of Vietnam and Cambodia. Pretty chill ride. One amazing thing is that for about 1 1/2 hours of it you are still in Ho Chi Minh City. Man, this place sprawls forever! Crossing the border via land was interesting. Unlike in an airport, you have to first check out of Vietnam, then cross through nomansland and check into Cambodia. Also unlike an airport, the rabidness of Vietnam's corruption rears its ugly head. We got to see this for the first time in person. Let's just say, in Vietnam there is no problem a few hundred thousand Dong cannot fix. Let's just say that it's not something that is attempted to be hidden (get pulled over on a scooter and the police will just say "money, money" - no bother to check for i.d. or explain, just pay me!).
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| Border crossing goes to the highest bidder! |
Longish story short one of our passengers had an old Passport # that matched up to their current Residence card. The new passport had a different # but was current. So they brought both. Should be no problem as everything matches up, stamp and go on through, right? Not so. Charlie wanted $40usd (on top of the usual $20usd for a visa) extra to make it all nice-like. That's a bit beyond a "commission" (200% the original price?) not to mention that we already pre-paid a $5usd bribe per person through the travel bus company to make sure everything was smooth. Well they talked him down to $20usd and were sure to let him know they didn't consider it a "tip" as he had mentioned, rather extortion. People were literally handing passports over with money dangling out of them. They even have guys in blue uniforms hanging around. Throw them your passport with $5-$10usd and poof! you are first across...imagine that.
We spent one night in Sihanoakville at a nice place with a pool for the kids and caught the boat in the morning over to the island. This was not a vacation to immerse ourselves into the culture or go searching for ourselves. This was about relaxing. Relaxing after moving to a new country, taking a jaunt back to the US for a minute, starting a new job, etc., etc. And man, did we book the right trip....
11 people in our crew - 5 kids from 2-12 years old. All very well traveled individuals we were hanging out with to say the least. Everyone got along swimmingly and not once did we get any tantrums, or even close to one, from any of the kids. Amazing when you consider about 12 hours of bus travel, 2 hour boat ride, border crossings, etc.
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| Our crew... |
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| Ready for action.... |
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| 3 to a seat at this size...saves on gas. |
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| You call that a "boat"? |
Not much drama on the way out. A little bit of rough sea's that the converted fishing boat took head on, but nothing we couldn't handle. When we got there the tide was too low to pull up to the dock so you 2 choices. Either take a dingy in or swim. Ummm.....I swam. I did my best to make the crew at Main Beach, Erskine Lakes high dive proud, climbed up to the roof and launched. A first for me, swimming to my destination! So cool....
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| Land ho! |
Our days consisted of waking for a walk at sunrise (well, Graeme and Erin did - Daddy slept a bit later after hanging a little later at the restaurant talking with the locals who work there) usually accompanied by some monkeys and water buffalo dung. Followed by a lazy breakfast where you could catch up with your friends while staring at the ocean view. The kids all played games - and a big high-five to the older kids who had the patience of angels to teach a 2 year old how to play Risk, Battleship and Jenga - as we decided if we should swim first or laze on the beach first? The rest of the day took care of itself....
The waves and water were just perfect, especially for the kids. Holding steady at about 78 degrees, it was about waist deep until just past the sand bar, so Graeme could stand for the most part. As we know, he loves the ocean. He also loves taking on the waves. He's not such a fan of going over them or under them. He likes to try and go THROUGH them! The surf never gets big here (bummer for me) but the gutless 1-2 footers were perfect for Graeme. As far out as you chose to go, you could still count the grains of sand on the bottom - that's how clear the water was.
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| Should went under that one... |
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| These waves won't know what hit them... |
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| Charge! |
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| First wave! |
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| Checking out the rights... |
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| I got it Dad! |
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| Let's see how the lefts are... |
Graeme caught his first waves here. I started out by pushing him sans-boogie board to body surf a few. He glided a bit on some of them. Then we jumped on the board. He was a natural! Not sure if he's gonna be goofy or regular - he like going both right, left and straight. He took to them quite naturally if I don't say so myself. Need to get him on a surfboard soon!
It's a small island. One day it was a bit windy at our beach. We took a 20 minute walk on a path through the jungle to other side to see what that beach had to offer. Ummm...yeah. Saracen Bay.
Not too bad.
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| Saracen Bay - all to ourselves. |
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| Yup, no one else. |
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| Buds! |
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| Hanging with mom.... |
It was such a relaxing and recharging trip. You couldn't find a better solution to get away from such a busy city as HCMC. Aside from a few too many mosquito bites (Graeme got hammered, stinks being the lowest to the ground). Really an unbelievable place and if anyone ever comes to visit and wants to go we will be more then happy to show you the way!
As all good things come to an end, we sadly departed Lazy Beach, said our goodbyes to the local dogs and motored back to Sihanoakville. From there we thought it would be cool to take a detour on our way to Phnom Penh with our private van and check out
Kirirom National Park along the way. On paper a fantastic idea. Break up the drive, get above sea level into some fresh mountain air, go for a hike to a waterfall, majestic mountain views....
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| Cambodian river cabana's |
The drive proved to be a bit more then we had hoped for and turned a long day in a van into a really really really long day in the van. The views were amazing. The air was sweet and aromatic, cool on the face. Our van drive was a champion pushing the 2 cylinder baby-bus up 2,500ft elevation while navigating dirt roads, semi-paved roads and elephant sized potholes. When we got to the top there was a little village along a river. The water cascaded down a bit through a few pools... this was the "waterfall". You could rent space in these little huts and hang out and order some food from the locals. Graeme mixed it up a bit with some of the local kids but by the time we got there we really didn't have time to relax as we needed to be back on the road so as not to have to navigate the route in the dark. It was cool to see, we were just a bit spent. We hit a temple on the way down the hill to stretch our legs a bit more then we hotfooted it to Phnom Penh.
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| Steps to the temple.. |
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| One of these things is doing the wrong thing.... |
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| So cute and what a smile! |
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| Tuk Tuk here, Tuk Tuk there, here a Tuk, there a Tuk.... |
I will be the first to admit I knew very little about Cambodia and it's history before this trip. To go one step further, I knew very little about it until I actually read about it while on this trip. I got myself up to speed (well, the Readers Digest version) while at Lazy Beach. We spent 2 nights and one day in Phnom Penh. Incredible history aside - it's a wonder that we were even able to be there after what happened only 35 years ago - it's a really cool city. Much easier to navigate as a tourist then HCMC is. They are attracting international chefs who are taking advantage of the local ingredients and just doing great things. Tuk Tuk's are abound and cheap enough so you don't walk too much in the heat.
I'll wrap up Phnom Penh with the statement that we will be back. There is too much more to see and too much more to learn about this incredible culture. With the comfort level their tourist business is set up at, it's affordability (we did this entire trip for the price what airfare would have been had we flown 45 minutes to Cambodia) and the smiles the Cambodians provide on a daily basis, it's scandalous not to return many times. Hey, Erin and I were even introduced to each other by a Cambodian ;)
If you would like to see all the pictures from the trip
click here.
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| Sunset over Lazy Beach |
Life is not always gorgeous morning walks or incredible sunrises. We came home to the news that Graeme had lost his Great Grandmother, Thelma Dumbrill (he calls her G-Nan). Erin's Grandmother was battling cancer and brave to the end, passed away last Friday.
Graeme is very fortunate to have had the pleasure of knowing 5 Great Grandparents. He especially has been able to spend an abundance of time with G-Nan and the two of them have developed quite a bond. She was one of only a few people who can get him belly-laughing, he requests a book she gave him with her recorded voice telling the story often. When we were just home in California last month he was able to spend a few days at her house. The two of them playing and laughing for hours. Something so simple as pouring change out of a bowl and then putting it back in....I don't know why but it sent to both of them to the moon. Such a happy memory for his last moments with his G-Nan.
When I started this blog I said I wasn't sure where it would go. I try not to sugar coat everything. I want people to really know how Graeme, Erin and I are doing, what we are up to and basically what it is like living abroad, starting a new life in a foreign land. When things like this happen it is extremely difficult to express how we feel. Being so far when losing a loved one is not easy. Being home and close to everyone and losing a loved one is not easy. Our hearts are pouring out for Erin's Grandfather (G-Pop to Graeme), her mother and her siblings. G-Nan was a huge presence in their lives and will be missed dearly. But now she is not suffering anymore, and to be honest we feel she is even closer to us now as she isn't limited by her body anymore.
A true inspiration, coming to America with a 6 month old child (Erin's Mom), G-Nan and G-Pop created a life and spawned 4 generations - thinking nothing of sacrificing anything they had if it helped their family.
Please keep a thought for Erin's family at this time and in keeping spirit with the culture we are living in I found this Buddhist quote that seemed appropriate:
“Just as treasures are uncovered from the earth, so virtue appears from
good deeds, and wisdom appears from a pure and peaceful mind. To walk
safely through the maze of human life, one needs the light of wisdom and
the guidance of virtue.”
Hoà Bình,
The Hawken's in HCMC
#thetaoofgraeme
